Rissani
Rissani in Morocco is one of the oldest cities in Morocco. It is the starting point of the Alaouite dynasty and once was called the capital of Tafilalt.
I must start with a confession: I have a certain respect for starting a conversation with another Morocco enthusiast. Because I dread the moment when they will talk to me about a place I hardly know or that does not even ring a bell. I am afraid that I will be left at the height of the bitumen.
For example, there was a certain city that I had not paid much attention to but that another passionate about the country kept talking about. And, as being elusive when I mentioned it started to be suspicious. I decided to know it in-depth on the next trip.
The result? After that experience, I no longer considered Fes the urban environment where the feeling of time travel was most evident. Rissani had changed my mind and, incidentally, reminded me why one can never travel enough in Morocco. For this reason, we offer you the best Morocco tours to discover Rissani. So let’s get started!
A bit of history
Although I am not very fond of adding dates to articles, you will allow me to make an exception for Rissani. Because, apart from the entrance gate, its apparent discretion hides a glorious past that is due to two things. First, sharing a site with Sijilmasa. Second, being the cradle of the Alaouite dynasty.
Its location (at the gates of the desert, at the crossroads of two of the most important trans-Saharan routes and a few kilometers from a river and an oasis) was probably so important that they thought to build Sijilmasa in the mid-eighth century. On the outskirts of the current Rissani, becoming one of the main commercial meeting points.
Probably also because of its privileged location. It was the protagonist of an intense and convulsive history (wars, seizures, destructions, reconstructions, …). Until in the fourteenth century, it became the starting point of the current dynasty to undertake conquests throughout the country.
Things to do in Rissani
I will not tire of saying it: although Morocco undoubtedly has many monuments of interest. Its greatest heritage is alive: its people, its culture, its festivals, …
That is why visiting Rissani on a day other than Tuesday, Thursday or Sunday would mean not understanding the essence of this city and missing a unique opportunity. It is on those days when it connects with its past by presenting its market. The main focuses are on the surrounding merchants.
Once we access, with almost total probability, parking the vehicle in the parking lot of the south side. And we have crossed a small series of temporary stalls, you can admire one of the most photographed spaces. Space crowded with donkeys, which serves both as free parking and for merchandising.
The donkeys parking place
It may seem shocking that something as simple as a dirt esplanade with simple structures to which to attach the donkeys can be translated into such an entertaining spectacle. Over the continuous sound of braying, we will observe how the participants in the purchase and sale perform tasks such as visual examination or bargaining.
It is also curious that this is the only animal area in all of Rissani that is not enclosed by walls. This is probably due to its large size. As we must not forget the importance of the donkey in the local Moroccan economy. It is the preferred choice for the transport of goods. Thanks to its excellent value for money.
When we say goodbye to this endearing animal, we will find a street that, on its right side. In addition to wagons arranged in an improvised manner for food. It has a large perimeter wall of adobe and inside which, in different compartments, takes place the trade of other animals.
One space, one species: cows, goats, sheep,… but all with a similar distribution. A gallery, where the traders and part of the livestock await. And a courtyard, where other specimens are exhibited for examination and commercialization.
The traditional markets of rissani, Morocco
Then we arrive at the permanent market where, under wooden roofs, fabric, reed, and Uralita protect from the sun and provide a dreamlike atmosphere. Small stores are in the gallery, with offers that focus on meeting the short-term needs: food, clothing, repairs, hairdressing, …
The most striking thing is the high number of bikes that dot all the spaces. This is because they tend to be the usual way of getting around for market workers and some shoppers. In addition to the fact that the donkeys remain in the parking lot to allow for a cleaner and more efficient system.
Visiting the markets of Rissani is something in which we can easily spend a whole morning. And that will last in our memory, due to its multi-sensory experience. Being the meeting point of the people of the surrounding area. And, above all, thanks to its authenticity and genuineness.
In addition, we will be able to see them in all their glory and spend the afternoon on the monumental side of Rissani. But, not before stopping for lunch. And for this nothing better than trying a Berber pizza. So, you will need to go to one of the small restaurants that are located around the market. It will not be the same as one that they cook under the sand, as the canons dictate, but be sure that it will enrich your Moroccan palate.
What to see in Rissani: The monumental Rissani
We will begin with the witnesses of the historical importance of this city by visiting two ksars. They are buildings that arose under the protection of trade, and that obey both the management and control of routes and the accommodation of powerful families.
These constructions are mainly of sustainable and perishable materials: bar and straw that are in vertical molds, plus other structural and horizontal elements of wood and reed. This latter particularity causes that classification is usually established between ksars: those that are well maintained and those that are not. The first of those that we will comment on, Ksar Oulad Abdelhalim, unfortunately, obeys the second classification.
It is the residence of the sultan’s representative in the area and dates back to the 14th century. Of generous dimensions, it includes, in addition to the palace itself, a rich neighborhood and another for slaves. As I anticipated, today it is difficult to discern this distribution due to its condition. Some elements that can help us to differentiate are the remains of a landscaped courtyard (noble quarter). And what appears to be a public hammam (slave quarter).
Despite this, the ksar shows certain signs of life. Giving it a heterogeneous appearance where spaces in decline coexist with others through the use of temporary structures and others in a more than acceptable state and dotted with signs of everyday life such as clotheslines or water wells.
The Ksours of Rissani
All this because, although they usually choose to abandon the ksars for more modern constructions. There are those who resist it and carry out a minimal restoration of the place. These inhabitants are either heirs of the former owners or are families to whom the local governments provide shelter and small maintenance in exchange for their preservation.
The Ksar of El Fida
Another one to visit is Ksar El Fida. This ksar, thanks to the subsidies that the governments give, the fact that it is home to a museum and continues to be a tourist attraction, can conserve its constructive dignity.
Conceived as a palace and control mechanism of the commercial caravans, it is much more recent than the previous one (XVII century). And because it is a noble residence it has fewer spaces but of greater dimensions and majesty. Mainly access and entrance courtyard, housing, hammam, and garden.
You only can visit this place with a guide (it is customary to pay the will). The guide, a relative of the original owner of the ksar, although he has difficulty expressing himself in Spanish and English, the effort to understand him will be worth it. As he will not only tell you about its history but also relate anecdotes that will surely help you to remember this building.
For example, he will tell you that it was originally conceived by the sultan as a residence for his son. And that it owes its name to a nearby fountain that supplied the town and provided plenty of water in times of heavy rain. (Fida, besides meaning redemption, they often use it as a contraction in Arabic of Fayadan, meaning flood).
He will also tell you about the curious way they had of creating beehives to produce honey. By means of wooden containers embedded in the walls of the ksar.
Moulay Ali Cherif in Rissani
You can continue to Moulay Ali Cherif, an ancient fortress where the founder of the Alaouite dynasty rests. Unfortunately, as is usually the norm in Morocco in religious places, the entrance for non-Muslims is summarized in a central courtyard, consisting of a fountain, a garden where the date palms. Besides a perimeter gallery that gives access to other non-visitable spaces, such as a mosque or the mausoleum that preserves the remains of the sultan.
Sijilmassa of Morocco in Rissani
Finally, you can go to Sijilmasa, an ancient Berber settlement dating from the eighth century. In fact, it is one of the protagonists of the trans-Saharan trade. On the outskirts of the city. Although not infrequently, we can read that people erroneously identify Sijilmasa with Rissani, as if it were the same place but in different stages.
It has similar constructive characteristics to the first two ksars. But unfortunately, it is neither properly maintained nor properly protected. So the current appearance is reduced to the remains of some walls. Even so, I highly recommend visiting it for what it means.
It is located one kilometer from the city. On the road that connects with more urban areas such as Erfoud, Ouarzazate or Marrakech. So we can take advantage of both the idea and the return on that route and leave it for the beginning or end of the visit.
And now yes, with this last monument ends the article on Rissani. If what I am writing doesn’t convince you, trust me: the next time you go to Merzouga, instead of making the usual testimonial stop in Rissani that consists of taking a picture in front of the entrance gate. Spend a day visiting it: you will make it become one of your favorite places in Morocco.
If anyone wants to make any comment or contribution, it will be welcome Thank you and happy travels!
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